Our first stop was the picturesque village of Omodos, surrounded by pines. Walking along its cobbled streets, we reached the famous Timiou Stavrou Monastery which stands in the centre of the village. Legend has it that St. Helena (mother of Emperor Constantine) left a piece of the rope with which Christ was tied to the cross and it is now kept in a cross-shaped reliquary. It is believed that on her return journey from Jerusalem after recovering the Cross of the Crucifixion, St. Helena was stranded by bad weather on the south shores of Cyprus. She first founded the monastery of the Holy Cross on Olympus peak, now known as Stavrovouni (Cross on the Mount) and then churches at Tochni, Lefkara and Omodos.
It is possible that on the site of the present monastery, on which St. Helena built only a church, there pre-existed another smaller church or even a pagan temple. The current church was built in 1858 to replace a smaller one that was demolished.
The monastery it is believed must have flourished during Frankish and Venetian rule since important icons survive from these periods. The village of Omodos developed from the monastery possibly as early as the Byzantine period but certainly during Frankish rule.
The local priest explained the monastery's past and the church has icons painted in the Russian Orthodox style as well as impressive murals created between 1905 and 1912 which are influenced by more Western traditions in painting.
I paid a visit to the Ecclesiastical Museum within the monastery which houses 16th century icons portraying Jesus' life as well as icons of St. John the Theologian, St. Peter and Archangel Gabriel among others. Also on display were religious robes worn by priests, a silver incense burner and silver trays and chalices.
The first floor took you to a display of Omodos papilla lace and as is explained by the historian Talbot Rice in his book 'The Icons of Cyprus,' these laces were highly valued in Europe and exported in the 14th century.
Another museum on the top floor was dedicated to the EOKA struggle with descriptions of some of the fighters who died and displayed are an interesting collection of some of their clothes and belongings.
Leaving Omodos, we made our way higher up towards Platres and Trooditissa Monastery in a landscape of refreshing and lush greenery, the sky above overcast with a hope of rain and opening the car windows, we breathed in the cool, mountain air.
There was a soothing calm about the monastery with only the rustle of leaves breaking the silence. Local tradition dates the monastery to the 8th or 9th century, though the earliest written record is from the 14th century. The monastery was burned down by the Ottomans in 1585 and again by fire in 1842 with the current church built in 1731. The surrounding monastic buildings date from the late 18th and 19th centuries. Inside, the miracle-working icon is adorned with a silver-leaf cover and offers hope to childless couples.
We returned to Omodos for coffee and cake and as we sat idly in the cafe under the shade of large umbrellas, it started to rain. The rain felt auspicious and hopeful and a respite from the heat and humidity. Before leaving we bought 'arkatena' (bread typical of the village) as well as honey-coated cashew nuts and pomegranate-flavoured sesame seed candy known as 'pasteli.'
The trip was a change of scene to the hustle and bustle of town life and on returning I felt changed and with a renewed sense of hope.
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