Saturday, 27 September 2025
A Return To Nicosia...
Saturday, 30 August 2025
Ten Cypriot Staycation Summers...
Tuesday, 26 August 2025
Mountains and Monasteries...
Wednesday, 20 August 2025
To A Godfather...
Monday, 18 August 2025
Colin Thubron: Journey Into Cyprus
It is not often you come across a book that promises everything you want it to be and does not disappoint. Such was the case on reading Colin Thubron's 'Journey Into Cyprus.' It describes the writer's trek through Cyprus in the spring and summer of 1972. There is a dreamlike, reflective melancholy throughout, intertwined with historical insight and touches of humour.
As the book unfolds and as the writer traverses the island, you feel you are walking with the writer yourself and with every step something new is revealed, something knowledgeable and informative, snippets of facts about the island that you didn't know before.
The thoughts and insights of the writer carry you away, to another point in time, a different period of the island before the tragic events of 1974 and it is with this knowledge, that you are reading about and witnessing an island before catastrophe, that it is all the more veiled with melancholy and reflection.
Thubron wanders through forests, mountains, rivers, villages and towns and he meets colourful personalities along the way. Often these chance encounters are peppered with humour such as his meeting with Chambis who believes he is a descendant of the Arcadians- " Of course we are Greeks,' said Chambi, but of a separate kind" or the tragic-comic encounter with the Turkish tomb robber who wants Thubron to purchase ancient artifacts -"On the table were fragments of Roman glass...The old man held one up to the light. He was spry and brown as a monkey. 'One pound,' he said. 'Will you buy?" In one humorous moment where he is invited to eat with a family, he experiences eating 'strouthos,' a bird which he soon discovers is far from chicken- " The skull fell off the neck with a tiny clatter. I scraped away a little of the chest and ate its dark, high meat."
There are also more sobering accounts such as his meeting with Christos the schoolmaster, who was tortured by the British because of his involvement with EOKA and the writer is shocked by his revelations as he shows him around the prison cells he was kept in and concluding that, "It seemed now that I was naive not to have believed it before. In every people, when angry or afraid, there is a quality which can be distorted into brutality. In my own, perhaps, it was a lack of sensitized emotion."
Beauty and ugliness intertwine in the narrative, as he describes the harsh landscape of the copper mines which had "taken on a mutilated synthetic look," in direct contrast with other places such as Akamas with "its flush of green [which] was entrancing, and a host of butterflies were tumbling about the trees." Often he is high up looking down with reflective thought as he experiences when he visits Stavrovouni Monastery on a star-filled night - "Below us cities and villages, by day invisible for haze, glimmered out of the darkness: Famagusta, Nicosia, Limassol, the bracelet of Larnaca on its bay; while to the west the Troodos mountains were piled with scattered sparks like a fairground canopy."
As Thubron reaches the northern tip of the island, he is all the more entranced by its beauty and history and as his journey ends, he reflects on Cyprus and its compexity. As a writer and traveller Thubron witnessed Cyprus in its last years of peace. He travelled around the entire island before partition and destruction. He experienced a unified Cyprus, so mesmerizing and authentic that by the end of the book you are left with a feeling of longing, a deep wish to see Cyprus unified once again and like Thubron, be able to walk the same path as his - no borders, no checkpoints, just freedom of passage around an island which is still waiting in the midst for that day to arrive again.
Monday, 11 August 2025
Gratitude: Peace for Today, Vision for Tomorrow...
In today's fast-paced lifestyles, where tedium and irritation seep in, where life often seems to throw us challenges one after the other and there is no end to to-do lists and mundane errands, August on this island, feels like a relief.
It is an opportunity to sit and relax, whether at the beach, in your garden or simply on your front porch or balcony, watching as afternoon slowly mellows into twilight and the cicadas' humming draws out into evening. For many it is a time for re-evaluation, a reset ready for a new beginning in September.
For a winemaker, in Cyprus and elsewhere, August are when the grapes are in the final stages of ripening and preparation for harvesting is underway as they are picked for eating or making wine.The winemaker's fruits of labour reach their end and if the harvest is bountiful, so much the better.
In the same way as grapes are harvested, so too must we cultivate gratitude despite life's setbacks and hurdles. Being simply present in the moment, quietly content and satisfied with what we have is, in today's world, immensely underrated. But it is only in these moments of gratitude, that new blessings arrive, often unexpectedly and unannounced.
It is often the case here in Cyprus, that many fall into the trap of wanting, when what they have is never enough and are easily influenced by others' supposed glamorous and more luxurious lifestyles. They perceive expensive belongings- cars, homes, the latest tech trend or expensive shoe or bag to be of more importance than generosity, humility, integrity or just a simple heartfelt compassion. We lose ourselves in wanting, in never being satisfied in having enough. Often it is the view of ourselves which is lacking. We identify ourselves with wanting and having than with just simply being.
The late American author Melody Beattie once said, "Gratitude unlocks the fullness of life. It turns what we have into enough, and more. It turns denial into acceptance, chaos to order, confusion to clarity. It can turn a meal into a feast, a house into a home, a stranger into a friend." She also said, "Gratitude makes sense of our past, brings peace for today and creates a vision for tomorrow."
Rather than being caught up with what is lacking, we must be thankful for what we have, with the little we have. To someone in this world, it is a lot more than they could ever imagine possible. Someone's little could equate to another's plenty. Gratitude allows us to see this and be at peace with life as it is and look forward to what is to come.
Wednesday, 6 August 2025
A Visit To Geroskipou...
Tuesday, 5 August 2025
The Ancient City Kingdoms...
Saturday, 26 July 2025
Reflections on Cypriot Wildfires
Monday, 21 April 2025
Easter Break: From Book Coma to Food Coma and Back Again...
Book Coma: when a person is so engrossed in a book, they are unable to stop reading it until they finish the book.
Food Coma: a state of sleep or extreme lethargy induced by the consumption of a large amount of food.
I started the Easter holidays with only one thought in mind-rest and recuperation, away from frantic traffic jams and peopled restaurants and cafes. All I needed was peace and quiet and to just read.
My first reading goal was to finish John Steinbeck's epic tale of woe and deprivation, 'Grapes of Wrath,' which I had put off finishing until I was in a better frame of mind to deal with its sad story of grief, loss and dashed dreams. I managed it in the end, but left a little unsatisfied by the ending which felt unfinished.
Outside my bedroom window, I could hear the hum of cars, motorbikes and trucks going by on the highway, supermarkets and shops must have been packed with last-minute shoppers. Holy week meant church services busier than usual, which I opted out of this year, religious zeal somewhat lacking.
Instead I delved into another book, this time on geopolitics, 'The Power of Geography' by Tim Marshall, another read I had left unfinished. Firecrackers went off outside at night as I delved into chapters on Ethiopia and Saudi Arabia, Spain and Australia, immersed in countries in the sweet solitude of my bedroom, faraway from observant and fasting-deprived elderly women and the louder than usual incantations of the priest in a church packed with people.
Easter Sunday arrived (after soup and boiled eggs the night before) with promise of a feast. As the array of meat, potatoes, pasta and salad was spread out on my aunt's garden table, I remembered the chapter I had read on Ethiopia in Tim Marshall's book about famine and the Joad family's food deprivation in 'Grapes of Wrath.' I was lucky I thought. Luckier than a lot of people who had less. Of course on Easter Sunday you eat more than most days, only because there is so much of it, food and then the promise of desserts and from a book coma comes a food coma where all you want to do is go home and sleep it off.
Before you know it, the urgent, religious week is over and with relief things slowly go back to some form of normalcy. After finishing 'The Power of Geography' I am now delving into another book and quite happy to do so after a walk by the beach and a coffee.
For me the Easter break is a time of resetting and starting again and reading helps even if it is combined with too much food, but that too is a kind of celebration, a moment of thankfulness and gratitude that for another year there is food on the table and seconds and thirds to go with it.
With all that is going on in the world food and books are a consolation. Everyone retreats into what they feel for them can bring happiness and fulfillment and forget all that brings pain and disappointment. Everyone moves on with the times and hopes for better days or at least stability and to see another year through.
Saturday, 8 March 2025
Some Springtime Thoughts...
Spring has arrived, with flowers and greenery blooming, butterflies flitting about and the swallows have arrived. Nature wills to soothe a troubled world and bring solace to those suffering, a reminder that after difficulty and hardship, can come transformation.
This island moves with the times, our everyday routine and preoccupations- work, home, relaxation taking up the days and months. We keep moving, the world keeps moving and in the midst a hope for better days, for change and progress.
In the past, I have highlighted grievances, expressed disdain, anger and disappointment about life here on this island but it has only been so because of the underlying belief that this island deserves better, that love and appreciation for what this island genuinely stands for and truly offers, is sometimes lacking. In some instances the desire for quick profit, the overarching concern with materialism and frenzied development, has replaced soul, integrity and even plain common decency. I know I am not alone in my concerns. Many wonder what kind of future we are heading for and if in fact it benefits Cypriots in the long run.
However, I choose to focus on the positives. The world, our world has enough negativity already. There still exists the warm welcome that our shores bring the visitor, good wholesome food and a deep historical and cultural heritage which we need to promote even more. There is hope, a silver lining. People still care and want to improve the way things are done and there is time to do so.
Our island remains a port of call for many. We are strategically important and if we continue to learn the lessons of history, we will develop and prosper in the right direction. Let it be so, let us not stop in moving forward, but always looking back and remembering what truly matters.