Thursday, 31 October 2024

Cypriot Inherited Trauma

 There has been a lot of bloodshed and animosity throughout this island's history and generational trauma is rife. Sometimes it is so subtle and so deeply hidden that it is left unnoticed by an imperceptible eye. Some leave it unresolved and pass it on to the next generation, only to go further down the line.

It is only when someone recognizes something is wrong, a daughter or a grandchild and chooses to question beliefs so imbedded in the older generation's psyche, that the trauma does not pass on to their own children.

In Cyprus, we have lived through struggles and war and the generation that lived through it, bear the scars and memories of such black and dismal years.

In her book 'The Island of Missing Trees,' Elif Shafak discusses family trauma and brings to light all that has not been spoken.

"If families resemble trees, as they say, arborescent structures with entangled roots and individual branches jutting out at awkward angles, family traumas are like thick, translucent resin dripping from a cut in the bark. They trickle down generations. They ooze down slowly, a flow so slight as to be imperceptible, moving across time and space, until they find a crack in which to settle and coagulate...Divided islands are covered in tree resin which, though encrusted round the edges, is still liquid deep inside, still dripping like blood. I have always wondered if this is why islanders, just like sailors in olden times, are strangely prone to superstitions. We haven't healed from the last storm, the time when the skies came crashing down and the world drained of all colour, we haven't forgotten the charred and tangled wreckage floating around, and we carry within us a primeval fear that the next storm might not be far off."

It is in our hands to face our struggles and demons. It is a fire burning and can only be quenched by an admission of the ugly, disturbing truths of days gone by.

Wednesday, 30 October 2024

From Ledras to Arabahmet...

Today I crossed the border into north Nicosia for the first time. I visited a lot of places in the city centre, including Buyuk Han and the bazaar which was the main shopping area in Ottoman times. Buyuk Han, which is the most interesting Ottoman building in Cyprus and built in 1572 as an inn for visiting merchants, was full of people chatting, eating and drinking and taking in the morning sunshine.

At the bazaar, I bought a handmade ceramic bowl of ornate design and browsed the fresh fruit and vegetables on display. 

Arabahmet Mosque and district were particularly interesting. The mosque is covered with a vast dome. Built in the early 17th century on the site of a former Lusignan church, it was remodelled in 1845. As I walked along, melodies from a radio could be heard and what seemed to sound like a flute in the morning air. 

I bought some sweets from a Turkish delight shop, opened in 2003 and then I crossed the border back to Ledras Street. I had mingled among the Turkish Cypriots and the tourists, among the stalls of clothes, bags and other trinkets for sale and wanted to stay a little longer. There was so much I wanted to say as I wandered around, so many words left unsaid, but I had to leave and I reluctantly showed my identity card and crossed the border to the south side again. 

I took photos of this day and I plan to return and next time start a conversation, stay more, express more and listen to the stories, the experiences, the dreams of those that live among me, on an island still divided, still waiting for something in the future, on a horizon of hope. 

Rumi, the 13th century poet once said, "Go on! Go on! I will not leave you alone. I will not let you go."

I won't abandon hope, because without it there is no future.