Monday, 30 September 2024

The Cyprus Emergency 1955-1959: Before and Beyond

 Many believe that the Cyprus campaign for union with Greece began with the Cyprus Emergency in 1955. In fact it all began many years before that time.

On the 9th October 1907, Winston Churchill who was Parliamentary Under-Secretary of State for the Colonies arrived in Famagusta. In his book 'A New History of Cyprus,' writer and historian Stavros Panteli, describes the visit in detail. He recounts Churchill's impressions and subsequent reflections of his visit to Famagusta and Churchill said "While the wharf and the streets of the town were gay with the colours of Greece, the air was rent with shouts for the Union. The display was at one time in danger of being marred by the Turks of Famagusta who, in their indignation of the Greek demonstration, fell foul of some of the processionists and began what might have developed into a very considerable affray."

After his visit, Churchill concluded that "such a desirable consummation will doubtless be fulfilled in the plenitude of time and that, in the meantime, the people of Cyprus will be content to remain under the British flag."

Fast forward to 1912 and 1913. As the writer Raymond Hiscock explains in his book 'Open Letters from Cyprus,' there were meetings held in London between 16th December 1912 and the 6th January 1913, at which were present the Greek Prime Minister Eleftherios Venizelos, Lloyd George, the Chancellor of the Exchequer Winston Churchill, First Lord of the Admiralty and Prince Louis Battenburg. As Hiscock explains, there was an offer to Greece, whereby Britain would hand over Cyprus in exchange for the use of naval facilities at Argostoli. As is further described, in principle Venizelos accepted this offer but it still needed to be confirmed by Sir Edward Grey the Foreign Secretary and it is on record that neither government pursued the proposal during 1912/1913. 

Further offers were made to Greece during 1914/15 but the pro German King Constantine and his Queen flatly refused to consider them.

As Raymond Hiscock explains, "It is interesting to reflect that the chance of Enosis was scuppered, not by the English but by the very Greeks with whom the Cypriots were so anxious to merge and it can be suggested that it was at this point in history when the 'Cyprus Problem' began.

During World War II large numbers of Greek Cypriots fought with the allied forces, many of them being decorated for gallantry in the service of the imperial power. In his book, 'Brief History of Cyprus in Ten Chapters,' Dr Dick Richards describes the Cypriots' continual demand for self-determination. "All were unsuccessful as were appeals to the United Nations in 1954 and 1955." The writer explains that "all routes having failed, there came an eventual agreement between the Ethnarch and leader of the people, Archbishop Makarios III and other leading Cypriot citizens and politicians that recourse to violence was reluctantly justified."

In the Spring of 1955 organised riots began, including armed skirmishes, shootings and bombings. As Stavros Pantelis explains, " EOKA had no reason to attack and anatagonize the Moslem inhabitants and in July 1955 issued a Turkish leaflet assuring the island's Turks that it was struggling not against them but against British colonialism." As Pantelis explains, this was "short-sighted to ignore the possibility that Britain would encourage such a reaction from Turkey."

Independence eventually came in 1960. Many Cypriots left the island in the 1950s and 1960s fearing of further trouble. Their fears were confirmed in the early 1960s when violence erupted between Greek and Turkish Cypriots. In the 1960s wealth and stability were short-lived. Between 1960 and 1974, the newly formed Republic of Cyprus, lay on shaky foundations. 1974 was a calamity, with people being displaced from their homes, friends being separated.

As a Cypriot, but at the same time British born, I have wrestled with this island's tormented past and its continual division. Here I have analysed past events with an eagerness to reach a truth. But what is really the truth? With the Cyprus Emergency and the stories I have heard, I have been through a series of differing emotions- anger and resentment but also pity, sadness and compassion. To some it was terrorism, to others freedom fighting.

Was the Cypriot cause honourable or was it outlandishly ambitious and misguided? What if it had never happened? Would this island be better off now? Would we have avoided 1974? It's painful and difficult to think that the bloodshed was in vain, or was it?

In his book 'Bitter Lemons,' Lawrence Durrell ends with a poem which says "Better leave the rest unsaid/Beauty, darkness, vehemence/ Let the old sea-nurses keep/Their memorials of sleep/And the Greek sea's curly head/Keep its calm like tears unshed."

I believe we need to learn the difficult lessons of a difficult past and move forward into a period which hopefully, brings stability and that simple yet so sought after word- Peace.

Saturday, 28 September 2024

A Visit To The CVAR, Nicosia

The Centre of Visual Arts and Research is a non-governmental, not-for profit organisation. On display are paintings and artifacts throughout the ages, which bring to life Cyprus' vibrant history.

The paintings which particularly stood out were Matthew Gosset (1839-1909) and his depictions of Kolossi Castle and Kyrenia Castle, Luigi Mayer (1755-1803) and his depictions of ancient Amathounta and the town of Limassol and Georges Jacques Desmeules (1886-1976) and his portraits of old women which are particularly beautiful.

There was also a Cyprus government railway timetable of 1938 for the Famagusta-Nicosia Services which transported you to another time when Cyprus had a railway as well as the last British military flag flown in Cyprus.

As is explained, a number of antiquarians and archaeologists visited Cyprus in the first part of the 19th century in the hope of finding artefacts of special interest. The locals humorously called them 'euretades' which means treasure seekers.

A particular surprise was the Glafcos Clerides Library which included numerous books on a variety of topics, photos of family and friends, including 1993 photos of Elizabeth II and Prince Philip. 

A gigantic portrait of the late president by Rossin in 2000, shows him standing behind a desk, with the same gaze he always had and his characteristic whimsical smile, the Cypriot flag behind him. I felt his soul was in the room with us.

Sunday, 22 September 2024

A Time For Harmony...

Limassol has always felt like home in comparison to other Cypriot towns. The feeling of returning to Limassol after a short or long visit to another part of the island, is unparalleled.

I always return and feel at home, as we near what is now a seaside landscape of high rise luxury apartments, which to me are enticing, attractive and exciting.

Limassol is a cosmopolitan town and each community, whether it be Russian, Ukrainian, Israeli, Lebanese or other, somehow intermingle harmoniously with eachother.

After 1974, all hopes were put on Limassol after the loss of Famagusta. To some, including the writer Joachim Sartorius, it seemed as though there was a panic and rush to replace what had been lost in the war. The pain and loss of displacement were pushed into Limassol post 1974.

He explains in his book 'My Cyprus', that he visited Limassol which he found "uninteresting, repulsive even ugly." He then explains the reasons. "After the loss of Varosha, the Greek Cypriots had concentrated all their resources on Agia Napa and especially on Limassol, steering business and tourism into this formerly sleepy harbour town with furious determination. The endless seafront street had been entirely blighted by vast chain hotels, cheap restaurants, casinos, amusement arcades and hastily erected apartment blocks. In these heaps of concrete, I had thought to myself on my first visit, you could see all the clearer what the island had forfeited in such a short time: harmony, sweetness, lustre. And what she had won: the sovereignty of beauty abolished and replaced with a new, cheap prosperity, which had no regard for light or landscape."

Those positive words: Harmony, Sweetness, Lustre. Those negative connotations: cheap prosperity, no regard for light or landscape and I agree to an extent that Limassol has a lot of work to do, if it is to regain its former identity pre-1974.

Efforts are being made at the moment for Limassol to become European Capital of Culture for 2030. They are contending with Nicosia and Larnaca among other places. Will they succeed in making Limassol European Capital of Culture?

There is a deep love for this town by its older inhabitants, especially the ones who remember it before the war, but in my mind, there needs to be an acceptance of how quickly things are changing in Limassol. It is not possible to return to pre-1974. Both the past and the future need to somehow be embraced harmoniously, if there is to be any form of progress.


Saturday, 7 September 2024

Ayios Mamas

 Ayios Mamas is celebrated on the 2nd September in Morphou, where my mother comes from, and in the village of Ayios Mamas in the Limassol district where my paternal grandfather grew up.

As Raymond Hiscock explains, in his book 'Open Letters from Cyprus,' St Mamas is to be seen at the monastery in Morphou. He is said to have arrived as a poor hermit saint, who refused to pay income tax to the Byzantine tax collector. The governor ordered him to be arrested and as he was being escorted to the palace, a lion, an animal unheard of in Cyprus, leapt from a thicket on to a nearby grazing lamb. St Mamas held up his hand, gathered up the lamb and jumped astride the astonished lion and rode him to the palace. 

The governor was so impressed that he exempted the saint from tax for life. Ever since, St Mamas, as patron saint of tax evaders, has enjoyed fervent worship.

In the village of Palaichori, in the chapel Metamorfosis tou Sotiros which was built in the 16th century, you can see various frescoes. Lions are a predominant motif of some of the paintings and St Mamas is seen riding a particularly elongated predator.


Sources: Eyewitness Travel: Cyprus